Xavier and I are on our way to becoming horse people*. We decided to sign up for 16 lessons at the Cherry Orchard in northern Macedonia, which translates into 4 lessons a weekend for 4 weekends in a row. That's about 6 hours of riding a weekend with instruction - a good way to either 'get back in the saddle' or learn for the first time (although I have to admit I'm a bit incapacitated today when it comes to walking. Or sitting. Or doing anything involving any part of my legs).
To get the most of our experience, we're staying in a small side apartment that centrally located between the main restaurant and lounge, and horse ring. While the apartment is special and cozy in its own way (with a huge fireplace that is kept going all night for warmth), it's the people that make this place so peculiar. The Cast of Characters is as follows:
The Boss: Owner of the Cherry Orchard and renowned Macedonian architect, Boss is an avid rider and animal lover. He spends every free moment at the ranch despite having multiple homes in Macedonia's nicest spots. He's the leader of the pack, so to speak, with an entourage of people around him all the time. Charismatic, sympathetic and self-assured, he is genuinely interested in the people on his ranch, in assisting in the lessons as well as the maintenance of the property. Throughout the day he can be seen galloping around on his thoroughbred, giving advice from the side of the ring, sipping on warm raki around a table of friends, or hosing down the dirt in the ring. Inside the restaurant, the walls are filled with pictures of him in competition, in costume for national commercials (involving horses), on the set of movies (involving horses) and in Rambo gear jumping massive fences. Never mind that the guy has had a serious role in designing the Skopje skyline with over a dozen buildings to his name. His heart is in exploring the foothills on horseback.
The General: The Boss' number 2 man when it comes to safety, the General rarely speaks and never shows his eyes which are hidden behind dark glasses. Donning a military beret, a jacket appearing to be 'bullet proof', jodhpurs and black boots, the General can be either spotted riding a large grey spotted horse around the property or walking with a horsewhip in hand that he continually taps to his leg.
Kika: One of the trainers who lives at the Cherry Orchard above the horse stable. Kika typically wakes to a glass of warm raki and cigarette and ends the day on the same note. English, not so good, but is an excellent and positive teacher, although 'in 10 minutes ok?!' is the most often heard English phrase coming from his mouth. Has a photo of the Boss by his bed and appears that he owes everything positive in his life to this "Great Man". When not in the ring, Kika can be found in the restaurant drinking warm raki accompanied by a cigarette.
Max: Another trainer, Max works at the Skopje Airport as air traffic controller when not with the horses. Max speaks almost fluent French and English and often leads groups on country rides with the General and the Boss. When a problem horse acts up, Max is the go-to guy to get on said horse and whip them into shape.
Alexander: Alexander lives above the restaurant and is in charge of the (way too) loud hip-hop music played all day l0ng, serving drinks, and (sometimes) serving breakfast. Sporting a black mullet hairdo and on occasion a white bowtie, Alexander has an array of dance moves that spontaneously erupt at any moment of the day. Last seen joggin a lap around the horse field in a fur coat while air boxing.
Miscellaneous extras: Throughout the day, various members of the family and nearby villages stop in for a drink and a smoke, for a ride, or just to hang out for an hour or so assessing whomever is riding in the ring. Also as extras - dogs, cats, children and international expats with diplomatic license plates.
Lots of pictures to see, internet promised by end of day today... hmmm, we'll see...
*I used to be a horse person, but that was over 10 years ago when I lived on my grandmother's horse farm during graduate school. I was lucky enough to find an owner who, in exhange for caring for the horses, let me ride whenever I wanted . Despite this, I never became an experienced rider, only comfortable on and around horses. I find them exquisite and clever creatures with a magnificence of size and grace that is matched only by the giraffe...
